New portraits – keeping it fresh

This year has been amazing so far. Absolutely the most busy I’ve been, but definitely the most satisfying time of my life in terms of my work. The GranTourismo! project has seen me off around the globe like never before – and I’ve spent the last four years on the road.
I’ve met  lot of wonderful people. I’ve photographed many of them. I’ve done my best to try and capture the spirit of each person – and the lovely comments from people whose portraits I’ve shot is gratifying.

So here’s to another six months of the project. You can see some selected ones from the project on my main photography site – and I’d love to answer any questions anyone has.

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Messing with the Visage

This year I’ve been keeping it clean with my portraits, no, not like that, I mean straightforward, no fuss, no crazy lighting. But what I’ve missed is texture. I do really want straightforward portraits of people for the Gran Tourismo! project – but I’m missing playing around with things a little.

I was checking out the effects on our Olympus PEN EP-2 that we’re testing out as a possible replacement walk-around camera for our DSLR’s and loved the window frames in our Venice palazzo – yes, it’s a tough life!

I took this photograph hand-held through the glass, you can see the lens in the top right-hand corner of the frame. I haven’t used this technique for a portrait session yet this year, but I’ve filed it away for future use…

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Seeing the Seasons: Asparagus and Artichokes

Vegetables occupy a peculiar place in my life with food. Some, such as the tomato (yes, I know it’s a fruit of sorts…), carrots or potatoes are pretty straightforward – fresh and forgiving. Asparagus and artichokes – are classic spring vegetables I have an odd relationship with. For me growing up, they were always from a can. There are some things that should never be put in a can and those two are prime candidates. Why? Because I loathed both these vegetables until I started to cook because the only ones I had tasted were from cans. As far as I’m concerned, if they’re not fresh or preserved in a way that gives at least a decent hint as to their original flavour, don’t eat them.

On the Grand Tour I’ve noticed much more than before how Italians, French and Spanish foodies know and love their seasons. And being here in spring that means plenty of asparagus and now artichokes. But it’s made me think about how when I’m back in Australia or Dubai that I notice the seasons very little compared to when I’m in those countries. In Australia I don’t generally think much about matching my recipes to the seasons as they do in Italy, France and Spain. Is it a reflection of how I grew up there? In Dubai it’s even odder. The seasons mean nothing once inside the mall as produce comes from all over the world. I can remember one instance of having just flown back to Dubai from Lebanon in October when the grapes and apples were being picked and I sampled the most delicious versions of both. But back in Dubai the apples and grapes were from countries where both were out of season.

Perhaps there are a few reasons I’m so out of tune with the seasons. Firstly, in Australia I’ve seen much less farmers’ markets and therefore I miss that connection that you get by actually talking to producers. Secondly, most people tend to get their vegetables from the national supermarket chains where just about anything you want is available year-round. As well, we generally don’t have the extremes of seasons in Australia that most Europeans experience, there isn’t that sense of change in the air that you get in Europe. When visiting restaurants in Australia, I can only remember the excitement being over rhubarb and truffles – both of which were sourced from overseas.

While this year – when I’m most certainly only cooking seasonal produce as part of our project – I’ll be most certainly paying more attention to seasonal produce wherever the work takes me after next February when the project ends, which, as I now firmly know, is the end of winter and the beginning of spring in the northern hemisphere!

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Natural light and a reflector…

This year is working out in a quite interesting way and I was really happy with a couple of portrait sessions I did in Barcelona. Relaxing and fun. Both Julio and Sergio were sipping a couple of beers when we arrived to shoot them and there is no better way to get to know a couple of guys than over a couple of beers!

While we were talking I was location scouting their street. We were initially meant to shoot one of the guys in their apartment, but they were not so keen on that. One of the things I like to do as a photographer is really show respect for the people you’re shooting. You need to know when it right to push for something and when it’s better to let it drop.

So across the road from the café, right on their street, there was a bench and a painted garage roller door. Street art is a big part of the Barcelona streets and having it in the background creates a good neighbourhood feel. I loved the way both of them dressed – great personal style and they both posed with little interference with me. All Lara had to do was get a nice glow with the reflector and we were off.

The whole session? About half an hour. Lara said to me the other day that it’s always the last shot or last pose that I end up using. That’s generally true – and that’s why it’s generally the last setup! Once you have it in the bag, pack it up!

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Foodies, mind your own damn business

“You shouldn’t be eating meat here, this is Essaouira!” proclaimed the dismissive voice outside the restaurant where we were taking to the owner about his food. We had been discussing the local beef, having tasted a fantastic, perfectly-cooked, saignant (rare) piece at his restaurant in the heart of Essaouira, Morocco. The indifferent voice was a French visitor, who along with another late-fifties English man were checking out the restaurant’s menu. They both we’re clearly ‘foodies’, but clearly clueless as to why we had ordered a steak at the restaurant – not that this was any of their business.

The visitor’s point was, of course, that with all this lovely seafood chugging into the port of Essaouira via the local fishing fleet, you shouldn’t order meat, with the implication that there is something ‘wrong’ with what I did, even though the beef is raised in the area. It’s a ridiculous argument, especially if you’ve visited the markets in the town and seen the local beef and lamb at the huge number of butchers. It’s fresh, it’s local and it’s organic – purely because it roams free with a little guidance in the fields along the coast. “They even go into the sea near my house!”, said the restaurant owner.

As we had been in the restaurant earlier in the evening having some drinks, we had seen how popular the beef was, especially with French guests. As we were writing about restaurants in the town, we thought we’d try what was popular on the menu. Besides, not everyone can and do eat seafood and we were reviewing the place. So apart from a quest to finish an exploration of lamb tagine, this was the only meat dish we ate the whole time we were in Essaouira. If you’ve been in Morocco for more than a couple of weeks, the endless mezze, cous-cous and tagine becomes a little repetitive as well and French food is a welcome respite. Even French bistro and brasserie staples, which generally bore me to death unless I’m famished and in Paris!

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago in Barcelona. We had gone back to one of our favourite restaurants from our last trip there a few months ago. A friend had told us that the front-of-house staff had completely changed since our last visit and that they weren’t sure that the place was still as good. It wasn’t and the talented chef was also struggling with a full house of foodies in town for a conference. A dish of venison (cooked rare) arrived the table. It had been sitting, inexplicably, on a bench for at least five minutes and as the plates were stone cold, so was the food. We asked for it to be just heated a little (something we’re loathed to do) and the predictable happened, they we’re both dry when they came back to the table. The chef came to speak to us and he apologized and offered to re-fire the dish or any other dish that we wanted from the menu. We told him that it wasn’t his fault and that the staff had left our plates sitting because they were swamped. No problem – and the staff lifted their game after that. The re-fired dishes were perfect and the chef came out to check if it was okay, even though he knew it would be. For us, we don’t think any less of the chef’s cooking.

As the meal wound down a table of food industry types who had been eaves-dropping on our conversations with the chef were leaving the restaurant. One of them, a quite tipsy Australian, appeared to be a little astounded that we had asked for a dish to be re-fired – after all these chefs are god-like! He leaned in to me and asked if I was Australian. I lied and said I was English, in my best BBC announcer accent. As he drunkenly left he shook his head and said, “it’s really a shame you didn’t enjoy the food”.

I was gob-smacked. There was no time to tell him that this was one of our favourite chefs in Barcelona. That it was our second meal here in several months. He was gone before I could tell him that it’s okay to send back cold food. There was barely a second in which I could tell him that just because you’re a foodie, this doesn’t translate to me being automatically interested in your opinion, especially when it’s not asked for.

On the flipside, at another restaurant in Barcelona, a couple of diners asked us who we were writing for and what we thought of the food. We then chatted about the food scene in Barcelona and as they were residents of the city gave us a thorough run down on what was happening and gave us some great tips that we later followed up. We love it when that happens. Sometimes it’s the key that opens a dozen doors.

While it’s great to see more people interested in food, food culture and criticism, there is a real snobbery or elitism about the growing number of people with extensive food knowledge. But seriously, if I really want your opinion, I’ll ask for it. Thanks.

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One way we gather content…

Over at Lara’s often sadly-neglected blog (we’re busy, busy, busy) there is an update of our latest work in print and online.

Lara has just posted an update of our work in print and online. Seeing these stories and photographs in print is sometimes like seeing an old friend, they take so long to get published!

One of the things that we’re often asked is how we gather materials and stories on the road. It’s all about talking to the right people and listening. We were in Doha, Qatar on a bunch of assignments and staying at the new W hotel, where we met the manager of the chic Wahm bar, Edgar Vaudeville formerly of Paris’ hip boutique hotel Costes and Sydney’s The Ivy. While chatting to him he explained how he had commissioned a new design of the sheesha pipe (otherwise known as a narghile, hubbly bubbly, hookah, water pipe – take your pick!) and as soon as we saw it Lara and I both went ‘OK, story right there!’

While I thought of the best way to shoot it – and having the handsome Edgar keen to be in the photo – Lara thumbed through her mental Rolodex of editors who would be interested. Emailed, approved and shot the next day. You couldn’t work by this method alone – but often it’s all about spotting a story that you think would be cool and having the contacts (who trust that you can pull it off!) to get it commissioned.

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Back in the saddle…

Back into the swing of things photographically and the GranTourismo! project is giving me great freedom on how I display the photos on the website – as well as what I shoot. I’m getting great feedback too, which is always welcome, especially considering that we’re not doing traditional guides to the destinations we’re staying, rather impressions of what it would be like to settle into a destination and get under the skin.

The other day I did my first portrait sessions of the year. One of the owners and the manager/chef at the riad in Marrakech that we stayed at were my first victims subjects. The riad has a central courtyard with a white covering over it during winter and it acts like a giant softbox. I shot both of them here in the late afternoon when the light was at its softest and used a reflector just to get some catchlights in the eyes and create a little ratio. As the riad is tasteful and almost minimalist, I decided to keep it simple and straightforward and with all that magic ambient light, the flashes stayed in the camera bag.

With Jamila I wanted a close-up and an environmental portrait. She was very busy and a little shy (even though a little birdie told me she went to the hammam the day before in preparation!) so I made the photographs as quickly as possible. As I’d known Jamila for a few days already, I knew her looks and spirit and I think I captured it pretty well.

With Rob, one of the owners, I was doing a piece on his fabulous soundtrack playlists at the riad. As I wanted to do a two-up set of photographs just like the ones I did with Jamila, I did a very shallow-focus shot of the iPod Touch. Given the lack of colour in an iPod screen a black & white treatment for both the photos was the answer.

This year I’m keeping it simple, concentrating on the look of the subject and getting great sharpness in the eyes. And given our schedule this year, it’s probably the way to go. I’m also going to totally change the way I do my street shooting as well (no zooms allowed), so it’s going to be an interesting few months!

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Plane Food

Emirates Business Class Menu

Any chef will tell you that making huge portions of food that needs reheating before serving does not easily translate into a great dining experience. But today there are a number of chefs that consult to airlines – Aussie superstar chef Neil Perry even designed an eight-course tasting menu for Qantas. Perry is the consulting chef for First and Business class and although I’ve not flown Qantas business class for well over a decade, his menu is almost enough to make me book a flight to see how much better the food can be. Almost…

On the first leg of a recent flight from Melbourne to Dubai we had an excellent meal on Emirates. As much as we have enjoyed flying Emirates over the years, occasionally we’ve had some very average meals, even in Business class when we upgrade to burn off some frequent flyer points. This flight, however, had me thinking why it has to be so hard. An appetiser of lemon Yamba prawns with green bean and capsicum salad was delicious. Yamba in Australia is known for its prawns and these were plump and sweet – certainly good enough to warrant breaking the rule that you don’t eat seafood on aeroplanes. A crispy duck salad served on mango, with coriander and chilli soy reduction is the kind of fusion that works well in Australia. The duck was moist and tasty with great balance – the right mix of sweet, spicy, sour and salty.

There was a classic Duck breast confit for a main and we both couldn’t help ourselves but order it – and we never order the same dish. It came with a red bean mix, mushroom crepe, steam choi sum and a Mandarin glaze and was so delicious and moist, we’ll even forgive them for having duck as a starter and a main course for such a limited menu. While there was a tempting pepper beef tenderloin with Paris mash and roasted baby vegetables topped with veal jus, if the chef isn’t on board making sure mine’s served medium-rare, I’m going to pass. I don’t know why they don’t prepare bœuf bourguignon (the classic French stew) that doesn’t dry out or overcook in the airline cookers. I guess because when people ask what it is they’ll have to say ‘stew!’ Still, these kinds of dishes would fare much better than tenderloin.

The wines were fabulous. Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial NV is a decent glass of bubbles and a great welcome to Business Class. Craggy Range Yacht Club Vineyard Marlborough NZ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is an interesting drop from a region famous worldwide for its Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a very dry one, but still has that quintessential Marlborough signature grassy taste and garden-fresh aroma – in other words delicious. One of our favourite Western Australian wines was also on the menu – and we had the crew running backwards and forwards to refill our glasses of 2007 Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay. This wine is rated at 94 out of 100 by Australia’s most respected wine writer, James Halliday, in his Australian Wine Companion, 2010 Edition. It’s a classic Aussie chardonnay – big, bold and lush.

Award-winning Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2007, from Marlborough, New Zealand was probably a great match for the duck for those who like a lighter style of red, but we opted for the Chateau Meyney 2004 Saint Estephe, which has a Wine Spectator Rating of 90. It’s still tastes a little young (unlike the winery which goes back centuries), but if someone offers you another pour, you won’t say no, especially when the cheese trolley is about to arrive. And the cheeses were excellent and served at the right temperature. This was a great wine selection for a flight.

Our flight from Dubai to London, however, was disappointingly not as satisfying in the food department. The menu read like someone desperately trying to make something interesting, but ignoring the basic rules of food combinations. There is a reason why certain food ingredient combinations work and why only the genius chefs can break the rules and make a dish work – chefs like Ferran Adrià and Pierre Gagnaire. Clearly the chefs devising the menus from Dubai are neither of the above chefs, but yet this was one of the starters:

Grilled prawns glazed with sweet apricot sauce, served with a pistachio and blue cheese mix, and an apricot and balsamic dressing

It looked and tasted as bad as it sounds.

We love flying Emirates – the entertainment system is a thing of beauty. We just wish they would get an imaginative, high profile chef to design and refine their menu, because the service and the sommelier are doing such an outstanding job – as are the Melbourne caterers who prep the food on that leg!

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It’s just an old snowboard jacket.

ACGjacket

It's just a jacket, right?

As I work my way through a plethora of cameras, lenses, cables and hard drives, I have to make some ruthless decisions about what is going to make the cut for our 12 months on the road for GranTourismo!

Clothes are another matter. I’m always ruthless about them. Suit. Travel pants x 1 (for photo shoots – lots of pockets). Semi-casual pants. Shorts. Long-sleeved shirts. T-shirts. Boots. Runners. Flip flops – just for the beach or around the house, I loathe them as much as I loathe being afforded the opportunity to seeing other people’s cracked feet when they wear them. Socks. Underwear. Hat.

But on this trip I’ll be doing everything from surfing to safaris to snowboarding. Temperatures will go from beyond freezing to beyond boiling. My snowboard gear weighs a lot and I probably won’t use this gear until the end of the year. I have a snowboard jacket that’s lasted me years. I bought it when Nike were trying to buy into snowboarding cool. I bought it in Dubai before my first ‘real’ snowboard trip to Cortina in Italy. Since then it’s been worn in the snow in France, Morocco, Lebanon, Austria, Switzerland, Poland, Australia and probably a couple of other places I’ve forgotten. It has a couple of tiny tears in the outer lining and it’s not worth taking half way around the world – especially seeing it won’t get used until December. I still don’t want to part with it as it’s travelled with me for some of my most memorable trips. But it’s going to the local charity shop.

How is it that just holding this inanimate object can bring back so many memories? The adrenalin, the excitement and sometimes the fear when putting it on in the morning at a ski resort when it’s your first day there. The first ‘serious’ snowboarding lessons. The first black run. Becoming addicted to heading off the groomed runs for off-piste adventure. The hikes. The hilarious Moroccan snowboarding misadventure which I still must scribble about.

I’m so tempted to put that worn out jacket back in storage…

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Staying Fresh

Note, I am rubbish at reading music, much to my eternal shame.

2009 was the most hectic year of our lives – hands down. Don’t get me wrong, it was great. We had so much work that we were reluctantly turning down writing and photography gigs that we actually really wanted to do, which I guess is a good thing, especially in a financial climate where so many people in the media are losing their jobs.

But we crossed the finish line into 2010 exhausted. Preparations for our Gran Tourismo! project including designing the website and ‘look and feel’ came hot on the heels of a draining gig in Bangkok. Body clocks are still a bunch of springs and gears in a shoebox somewhere, but we need to recharge the batteries so that we can be as fresh as possible for the next twelve months on the road. So how do you do that?

First of all, I’ve hardly touched a camera since we landed in Australia just before Christmas. I have no qualms in saying it’s been bliss. I’ve been deliberately not taking photographs because I need to have a fresh perspective when I wrap my hand around a camera again. I do appreciate that I’m fortunate enough to not have to be a photographer for a newspaper out shooting (at least) a couple of stories a day. I’ve been web designing and coding as well as writing up stories and it’s been a wonderful mental break from framing photographs and positioning lights and sweet-talking subjects into relaxing for the camera.

I’ve been thinking about the best way to describe how and why it’s so refreshing and I finally hit on a way this afternoon. In our Australian hideaway where we stay with family there is a wonderful baby grand piano. My mother was a music and piano teacher and my older sisters all studied piano which translated to three hours of listening to scales every afternoon. When it was my turn to learn piano I said “no way!” and picked up the guitar instead – I wanted to form a post-punk band! I wanted to have a band like XTC or Talking Heads. So I skipped piano. And theory. And endless hours practicing scales.

This didn’t mean that I disliked the piano. Erik Satie had always been a favourite composer of mine and I loved that period of creativity in the late 1800s and early 20th Century. That is a time I’d be happy to travel back to. So here in Bendigo, in a house built in that era, I finally decided that in my breaks from staring at a computer screen, I would learn to play some Satie on piano instead of shooting photos. My favourite piece is not the one that’s been played and ‘remixed’ into the ground, Gymnopédies No. 1. No, I love the slight Orientalist touches at the end of Gnossiennes No. 1 so I decided that I would teach myself that piece.

The first part of this process is to understand the piece technically and then learn to play it. That does sound straightforward, but being able to play a piece is different to being able to perform it. It went ok, but I kept getting caught out with the timing – it’s a little tricky – and Satie is ‘loose’ with his instructions. After a couple of weeks (probably a shocking amount of time for a ‘real’ musician to have a playable version of it!), I was close, but getting frustrated. I could picture my sisters sniggering at me for not doing my time on the piano as a child. I could play it, but I could not perform it. And Satie is all about the performance.

I decided that the best thing to do to get fresh was have a couple of days away from it. After studiously avoiding the piano for a few days – which I guess the rest of the family living here were grateful for – I went back, sat down and it flowed out almost perfectly through my hands. The subtleties of the timing were there. It sounded alive. It sounded real.

Practice may make perfect, but too much of something is never a good thing. And mastering the technicalities of a craft or art is only one aspect of being a good practitioner in any form of the arts.

Now I’m desperate to pick up a camera and get out and shoot anything. But maybe I’ll let it stew for a few days more…

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  • Meet Terence Carter

    Terence Carter

    Terence Carter is a travel and editorial photographer and travel writer. He literally lives out of a suitcase accompanied by a couple of bags of photography gear. He travels with his much more talented wife, Lara Dunston, fabulous travel writer and itinerary maker extraordinaire. He is Australian by birth, he has a Masters Degree in media studies and his home is Dubai, where he visits occasionally to empty his post box.
    Check out my photography on my main website.

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