One way we gather content…

Over at Lara’s often sadly-neglected blog (we’re busy, busy, busy) there is an update of our latest work in print and online.

Lara has just posted an update of our work in print and online. Seeing these stories and photographs in print is sometimes like seeing an old friend, they take so long to get published!

One of the things that we’re often asked is how we gather materials and stories on the road. It’s all about talking to the right people and listening. We were in Doha, Qatar on a bunch of assignments and staying at the new W hotel, where we met the manager of the chic Wahm bar, Edgar Vaudeville formerly of Paris’ hip boutique hotel Costes and Sydney’s The Ivy. While chatting to him he explained how he had commissioned a new design of the sheesha pipe (otherwise known as a narghile, hubbly bubbly, hookah, water pipe – take your pick!) and as soon as we saw it Lara and I both went ‘OK, story right there!’

While I thought of the best way to shoot it – and having the handsome Edgar keen to be in the photo – Lara thumbed through her mental Rolodex of editors who would be interested. Emailed, approved and shot the next day. You couldn’t work by this method alone – but often it’s all about spotting a story that you think would be cool and having the contacts (who trust that you can pull it off!) to get it commissioned.

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Back in the saddle…

Back into the swing of things photographically and the GranTourismo! project is giving me great freedom on how I display the photos on the website – as well as what I shoot. I’m getting great feedback too, which is always welcome, especially considering that we’re not doing traditional guides to the destinations we’re staying, rather impressions of what it would be like to settle into a destination and get under the skin.

The other day I did my first portrait sessions of the year. One of the owners and the manager/chef at the riad in Marrakech that we stayed at were my first victims subjects. The riad has a central courtyard with a white covering over it during winter and it acts like a giant softbox. I shot both of them here in the late afternoon when the light was at its softest and used a reflector just to get some catchlights in the eyes and create a little ratio. As the riad is tasteful and almost minimalist, I decided to keep it simple and straightforward and with all that magic ambient light, the flashes stayed in the camera bag.

With Jamila I wanted a close-up and an environmental portrait. She was very busy and a little shy (even though a little birdie told me she went to the hammam the day before in preparation!) so I made the photographs as quickly as possible. As I’d known Jamila for a few days already, I knew her looks and spirit and I think I captured it pretty well.

With Rob, one of the owners, I was doing a piece on his fabulous soundtrack playlists at the riad. As I wanted to do a two-up set of photographs just like the ones I did with Jamila, I did a very shallow-focus shot of the iPod Touch. Given the lack of colour in an iPod screen a black & white treatment for both the photos was the answer.

This year I’m keeping it simple, concentrating on the look of the subject and getting great sharpness in the eyes. And given our schedule this year, it’s probably the way to go. I’m also going to totally change the way I do my street shooting as well (no zooms allowed), so it’s going to be an interesting few months!

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Plane Food

Emirates Business Class Menu

Any chef will tell you that making huge portions of food that needs reheating before serving does not easily translate into a great dining experience. But today there are a number of chefs that consult to airlines – Aussie superstar chef Neil Perry even designed an eight-course tasting menu for Qantas. Perry is the consulting chef for First and Business class and although I’ve not flown Qantas business class for well over a decade, his menu is almost enough to make me book a flight to see how much better the food can be. Almost…

On the first leg of a recent flight from Melbourne to Dubai we had an excellent meal on Emirates. As much as we have enjoyed flying Emirates over the years, occasionally we’ve had some very average meals, even in Business class when we upgrade to burn off some frequent flyer points. This flight, however, had me thinking why it has to be so hard. An appetiser of lemon Yamba prawns with green bean and capsicum salad was delicious. Yamba in Australia is known for its prawns and these were plump and sweet – certainly good enough to warrant breaking the rule that you don’t eat seafood on aeroplanes. A crispy duck salad served on mango, with coriander and chilli soy reduction is the kind of fusion that works well in Australia. The duck was moist and tasty with great balance – the right mix of sweet, spicy, sour and salty.

There was a classic Duck breast confit for a main and we both couldn’t help ourselves but order it – and we never order the same dish. It came with a red bean mix, mushroom crepe, steam choi sum and a Mandarin glaze and was so delicious and moist, we’ll even forgive them for having duck as a starter and a main course for such a limited menu. While there was a tempting pepper beef tenderloin with Paris mash and roasted baby vegetables topped with veal jus, if the chef isn’t on board making sure mine’s served medium-rare, I’m going to pass. I don’t know why they don’t prepare bœuf bourguignon (the classic French stew) that doesn’t dry out or overcook in the airline cookers. I guess because when people ask what it is they’ll have to say ‘stew!’ Still, these kinds of dishes would fare much better than tenderloin.

The wines were fabulous. Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial NV is a decent glass of bubbles and a great welcome to Business Class. Craggy Range Yacht Club Vineyard Marlborough NZ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is an interesting drop from a region famous worldwide for its Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a very dry one, but still has that quintessential Marlborough signature grassy taste and garden-fresh aroma – in other words delicious. One of our favourite Western Australian wines was also on the menu – and we had the crew running backwards and forwards to refill our glasses of 2007 Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay. This wine is rated at 94 out of 100 by Australia’s most respected wine writer, James Halliday, in his Australian Wine Companion, 2010 Edition. It’s a classic Aussie chardonnay – big, bold and lush.

Award-winning Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2007, from Marlborough, New Zealand was probably a great match for the duck for those who like a lighter style of red, but we opted for the Chateau Meyney 2004 Saint Estephe, which has a Wine Spectator Rating of 90. It’s still tastes a little young (unlike the winery which goes back centuries), but if someone offers you another pour, you won’t say no, especially when the cheese trolley is about to arrive. And the cheeses were excellent and served at the right temperature. This was a great wine selection for a flight.

Our flight from Dubai to London, however, was disappointingly not as satisfying in the food department. The menu read like someone desperately trying to make something interesting, but ignoring the basic rules of food combinations. There is a reason why certain food ingredient combinations work and why only the genius chefs can break the rules and make a dish work – chefs like Ferran Adrià and Pierre Gagnaire. Clearly the chefs devising the menus from Dubai are neither of the above chefs, but yet this was one of the starters:

Grilled prawns glazed with sweet apricot sauce, served with a pistachio and blue cheese mix, and an apricot and balsamic dressing

It looked and tasted as bad as it sounds.

We love flying Emirates – the entertainment system is a thing of beauty. We just wish they would get an imaginative, high profile chef to design and refine their menu, because the service and the sommelier are doing such an outstanding job – as are the Melbourne caterers who prep the food on that leg!

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It’s just an old snowboard jacket.

ACGjacket

It's just a jacket, right?

As I work my way through a plethora of cameras, lenses, cables and hard drives, I have to make some ruthless decisions about what is going to make the cut for our 12 months on the road for GranTourismo!

Clothes are another matter. I’m always ruthless about them. Suit. Travel pants x 1 (for photo shoots – lots of pockets). Semi-casual pants. Shorts. Long-sleeved shirts. T-shirts. Boots. Runners. Flip flops – just for the beach or around the house, I loathe them as much as I loathe being afforded the opportunity to seeing other people’s cracked feet when they wear them. Socks. Underwear. Hat.

But on this trip I’ll be doing everything from surfing to safaris to snowboarding. Temperatures will go from beyond freezing to beyond boiling. My snowboard gear weighs a lot and I probably won’t use this gear until the end of the year. I have a snowboard jacket that’s lasted me years. I bought it when Nike were trying to buy into snowboarding cool. I bought it in Dubai before my first ‘real’ snowboard trip to Cortina in Italy. Since then it’s been worn in the snow in France, Morocco, Lebanon, Austria, Switzerland, Poland, Australia and probably a couple of other places I’ve forgotten. It has a couple of tiny tears in the outer lining and it’s not worth taking half way around the world – especially seeing it won’t get used until December. I still don’t want to part with it as it’s travelled with me for some of my most memorable trips. But it’s going to the local charity shop.

How is it that just holding this inanimate object can bring back so many memories? The adrenalin, the excitement and sometimes the fear when putting it on in the morning at a ski resort when it’s your first day there. The first ’serious’ snowboarding lessons. The first black run. Becoming addicted to heading off the groomed runs for off-piste adventure. The hikes. The hilarious Moroccan snowboarding misadventure which I still must scribble about.

I’m so tempted to put that worn out jacket back in storage…

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Staying Fresh

Note, I am rubbish at reading music, much to my eternal shame.

2009 was the most hectic year of our lives – hands down. Don’t get me wrong, it was great. We had so much work that we were reluctantly turning down writing and photography gigs that we actually really wanted to do, which I guess is a good thing, especially in a financial climate where so many people in the media are losing their jobs.

But we crossed the finish line into 2010 exhausted. Preparations for our Gran Tourismo! project including designing the website and ‘look and feel’ came hot on the heels of a draining gig in Bangkok. Body clocks are still a bunch of springs and gears in a shoebox somewhere, but we need to recharge the batteries so that we can be as fresh as possible for the next twelve months on the road. So how do you do that?

First of all, I’ve hardly touched a camera since we landed in Australia just before Christmas. I have no qualms in saying it’s been bliss. I’ve been deliberately not taking photographs because I need to have a fresh perspective when I wrap my hand around a camera again. I do appreciate that I’m fortunate enough to not have to be a photographer for a newspaper out shooting (at least) a couple of stories a day. I’ve been web designing and coding as well as writing up stories and it’s been a wonderful mental break from framing photographs and positioning lights and sweet-talking subjects into relaxing for the camera.

I’ve been thinking about the best way to describe how and why it’s so refreshing and I finally hit on a way this afternoon. In our Australian hideaway where we stay with family there is a wonderful baby grand piano. My mother was a music and piano teacher and my older sisters all studied piano which translated to three hours of listening to scales every afternoon. When it was my turn to learn piano I said “no way!” and picked up the guitar instead – I wanted to form a post-punk band! I wanted to have a band like XTC or Talking Heads. So I skipped piano. And theory. And endless hours practicing scales.

This didn’t mean that I disliked the piano. Erik Satie had always been a favourite composer of mine and I loved that period of creativity in the late 1800s and early 20th Century. That is a time I’d be happy to travel back to. So here in Bendigo, in a house built in that era, I finally decided that in my breaks from staring at a computer screen, I would learn to play some Satie on piano instead of shooting photos. My favourite piece is not the one that’s been played and ‘remixed’ into the ground, Gymnopédies No. 1. No, I love the slight Orientalist touches at the end of Gnossiennes No. 1 so I decided that I would teach myself that piece.

The first part of this process is to understand the piece technically and then learn to play it. That does sound straightforward, but being able to play a piece is different to being able to perform it. It went ok, but I kept getting caught out with the timing – it’s a little tricky – and Satie is ‘loose’ with his instructions. After a couple of weeks (probably a shocking amount of time for a ‘real’ musician to have a playable version of it!), I was close, but getting frustrated. I could picture my sisters sniggering at me for not doing my time on the piano as a child. I could play it, but I could not perform it. And Satie is all about the performance.

I decided that the best thing to do to get fresh was have a couple of days away from it. After studiously avoiding the piano for a few days – which I guess the rest of the family living here were grateful for – I went back, sat down and it flowed out almost perfectly through my hands. The subtleties of the timing were there. It sounded alive. It sounded real.

Practice may make perfect, but too much of something is never a good thing. And mastering the technicalities of a craft or art is only one aspect of being a good practitioner in any form of the arts.

Now I’m desperate to pick up a camera and get out and shoot anything. But maybe I’ll let it stew for a few days more…

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Notes from the road: The hotel and resort ‘meet & greet’: part 2

The lovely Hotel Portixol in Palma.

This is part 2. Check out part 1 here.

I’d like to share our notes on the ‘meet and greet’ we experienced at a couple of luxury hotels we stayed at this year, so you can be the judge:

No1. Much-fancied boutique hotel.

  • No dedicated parking area outside the hotel for guests to unload luggage from the vehicles. And I’m not joking when I say ‘guests’ unloading.
  • A staff member (who turns out to be the only staff member on duty) watches out the window as I struggle up the stairs with our bags.
  • Lara goes into the hotel to be informed that ‘they’ (the last use of plural when referring to hotel staff at this property) were not expecting anyone to be checking in today. Turns out that this is a very funny ‘joke’ that doesn’t go down so well with guests who have been up since 5am and driving all day – namely us.
  • I lug our bags up to the lobby, where the singular staff member is having a ten-minute discussion with a guest who urges the staffer not to remove her sandwich where she’d left it by the swimming pool, instead of checking us in. Weird, but this is when we realised that the staff member is the only one on the premises.
  • The solo staff member complains about how heavy our bags are as he grudgingly takes them upstairs to our room.
  • We get no information about the hotel, no breakfast times, and are told that if we want any information to ‘look it up’ in the hotel directory. To be fair, this is probably because the solo staff member had to go and look up ‘mojito’ in his cocktail recipe book so he could make some for the guests by the pool.
  • The staff member does, however, bring us glasses of champagne – but by this time we consider it an apology rather than a welcome to the hotel – which, by the way, is stunningly beautiful, one of the loveliest ones we’ve ever stayed in. Cheers!
  • Later, when we ask for dining recommendations, the staff member suggests that we should have stayed in another part of town if we wanted good eating options.

No2. Much-fancied resort.

  • We arrive at the resort but can’t, for the life of us, find anything that resembles a ‘reception’ or a ‘lobby’. And we’ve checked into thousands of hotels. We do, however, find a few cooks smoking outside the kitchen in full view of anyone who turns up at the resort.
  • Later, the food turns out to be just as ill-judged as letting guests see kitchen staff feeding their nicotine habit as their first memory of the resort.
  • Lara goes off to find someone who can explain where the reception is. There actually isn’t one.
  • Nor is there anyone who can help us with our bags because we’ve “arrived too late” (it’s 8.30pm) and “the boy has gone home”, according to the receptionist on duty. Our bad luck, I guess, for turning up ‘late’. The resort did know when to expect us, but the emaciated receptionist who clearly survives on the same nicotine diet as the cooks can’t even lift one of our bags off the floor with Lara helping her, so I lug the bags up the stairs to the stinking hot room by myself.
  • Despite expecting us at the exact time we have arrived, nobody bothered to turn the aircon on and the room is as hot as Dubai in August. Well, nearly.

I’m not going to mention the names of these hotels as I think it’s unfair to name and shame these places based on one experience. However, our experience in hotels tells us that these kinds of problems are not anomalies, but rather are indicative of an intrinsic lack of understanding of ‘hospitality’ and all that it implies, a lack of processes, poor training, and of bad hiring.

Yet both hotels continue to get written about in the luxury travel press and luxury travel concierge-style websites and given glowing reviews. Would you be happy parting with upwards of Euro 300 a night for this kind of ‘service’? And what if this was a special stay – a honeymoon or that first trip away as a couple?

Contrast these experiences with that of the following properties (coincidentally, most in Mallorca where we spent a couple of months last year) and credit where credit is due.

  • At the lovely Hotel Portixol in Palma, the front desk staff insisted on taking over the tracking of my tripod bag that had gone missing after our flight – taking the documents, following it up personally, and delivering the bag to our room when it arrived.
  • At their sister hotel, Hotel Espléndido in modish Port de Sóller, our bags were whisked away so fast when we arrived they were in our room before we’d even finished checking in. When we had to move rooms (we had to stay an extra night), the changeover was done as soon as we left the hotel for the day without us having to lift a finger. Neither of these properties are five-star luxury resorts, yet their service far exceeded that of the two darlings of the luxury travel press above.
  • At Son Brull hotel (also on Mallorca) the staff member who checked us in took us all the way through to the room and took care of our luggage, a rather democratic but ultimately sensible way of dealing with guests – if you have the right staff members. The staff here even insisted that we move to another room once they realised that we were going to be working and more desk space would be desirable. All handled without fuss or fanfare.
  • At the golfing resort* of Castillo Hotel Son Vida (yep, Mallorca again), the service was predictably excellent (it’s a Starwood Luxury Collection property). Even when our bags took a little while to arrive at the room, the staff member apologised profusely for taking so long – even though it wasn’t longer than ten minutes. That’s smart staff training. Which is what all of the good experiences we’ve had share in common. All had outstanding staff and service in their restaurants and bars as well – clearly no coincidence.
  • The Four Seasons Doha, though, took the cake. I was not only greeted warmly but even called ‘Mr Carter’ (instead of ‘Mr Dunston’ which I’ve learnt to live with as Lara makes all the arrangements and bookings) before I’d even stepped out of the car. The service remained brilliant and personal for the duration of our stay. At dinner, while discussing food when the manager, he said “Well, you’d know that, as you live in Dubai.” The staff had obviously done their homework.

I normally dislike business and ‘how to get ahead’ clichés, but one rings true about our experiences over the past few months: ‘you only get one chance to make a good first impression’. So why do so many hotels and resorts manage to make such a bad one? And why does it appear to be so hard when it seems like such an obviously wise investment in guest relations? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

*No, I don’t actually play golf, I was just there to take photographs…

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Thoughts from the road: The hotel and resort ‘meet & greet’: part 1

Settling in at the Son Brull Hotel and Spa – one of our better 'meet and greet' experiences.

As we’re off the guidebook treadmill these days and won’t be staying in any hotels this year (read about our new project here), I thought I’d reflect upon our recent months (it’s actually years!) of hotel living.

I’ve been mulling over a few aspects of hotel service for the past few months that I will collectively call the ‘meet and greet’.

One thing that became clear on the last never-ending trip (Melbourne-Singapore-Dubai-Venice-Mallorca-Barcelona-Venice-Dubai+too-many-other-Middle-East-countries-to-mention-then Thailand) is how important it is for hotels to meet and greet their guests.

I’m not talking about Ibis-level hotels (that’s not a diss on Ibis, they serve their purpose), but generally four- and five-star hotels, boutique hotels, and resorts that claim to be a romantic getaway or destination hotel. You know, the ones where you go to get pampered and where you expect a high level of service.

Let me explain what I mean by my version of ‘meet and greet’. It’s pretty simple. When a guest arrives at the hotel, there should always be someone to meet them. At a five star, staff should open the car doors, welcome guests warmly, take their luggage from the boot without asking, and guide them to the entrance. If it’s a small boutique place with just a couple of staff, they should at least invite the guests into the hotel, then take care of the luggage and car while their checking in.

While hotel groups such as the Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, InterContinental, and Anantara do this so well, you’d be surprised how many times on this trip we stood wondering whether there was a fire drill on because there was nobody around when we arrived. Several times I had to ask Lara whether the hotel that we’d just pulled up at was “one of the good ones” on our list, because they could have fooled me. At one highly fancied resort we could not even find the hotel entrance and lobby. It actually didn’t have one.

Now to the ‘greet’. Anyone who has stayed in the great resorts of Thailand will know that it’s not an accident I mentioned Asia’s Anantara brand. I don’t know anyone who isn’t impressed by a typical Thai welcome* to a hotel – the traditional Thai greeting of ‘Sawadee-ka’ is quickly followed by a warm smile, a gesture to sit down and relax, a refreshing drink, and an icy cold towel. They just do it so wonderfully. In the UAE, where the tradition of Arab hospitality is highly valued, Dubai’s better five-stars greet their guests to a level approaching that of Thailand.

The ‘greet’ part of the experience is so very important and yet so many hotels don’t make guests feel welcome. Think about it for a moment. It’s mindboggling. At the very least, the lack of a warm greeting makes guests unwelcome and uncomfortable, if not suspicious, and gives their critical facilities a wake-up call. A warm welcome rewards hoteliers in the end because guests are immediately more relaxed and, in turn, more forgiving of things that might otherwise niggle at them during their stay. In other words a great ‘meet and greet’ is a no-brainer investment in the success of a stay by a guest.

So what’s going on? While I’ve noticed that there are fewer members of staff floating about hotels these days, I have not seen a reduction in prices to match the reduction in service. If you’re a five-star hotel giving me an Ibis-level greeting, we have a problem before I’ve even swiped my card to the room.

We have also noticed that staff training at anything that’s not one of the large luxury groups is hit and miss and generally reliant on the staff members’ personality or previous experience – usually at one of the large luxury hotel groups. But shouldn’t guests expect more if they’re paying Euro 200+ a night? What are your expectations when you arrive at and check into a good hotel?

* I have to make a notable exception in Thailand for The Metropolitan Bangkok, one of the worst of any ‘meet and greet’ we’ve ever had in Thailand, where trying to be ‘cool’ translates to aloof and disinterested – until they found out after check-out that we were there to review them… suddenly, there was someone to help with the luggage. Bit late unfortunately.

In Part 2 I’ll be giving examples of both good and not-so-good meet and greet experience from the last few months. Some of the bad ones do boggle the mind!

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A few taste sensations from Bangkok. Part Five.

This is the fifth and last in a series on dishes I loved in Bangkok; one of my favourite eating cities in the world. Sorry for the late posting – I was actually making a version of Buta No Kakuni (Japanese Braised Pork Belly) mentioned in the last post!

stickyRiceMango

Mango and sticky rice (kao niow ma-muang)

Out of the Izakaya bars and back on the streets, one of the most traditional ways to end a meal in Bangkok is with mango and sticky rice (kao niow ma-muang). But Thai locals don’t need to have finished a meal to enjoy this snack. Just as many Westerners reach for a chocolate bar when they want something sweet, in Bangkok they go to their local street vendor. Usually the vendor sells mango and sticky rice and nothing else – I just love this about the street food here. Around the corner from where we stayed on this trip there was a woman who only sold bananas cooked over coals on skewers with an accompanying syrup. She would smile at me as we exchanged greetings while she worked away grilling up the bananas when I went past in the morning. By 8pm that night she’d be cleaned out – not a grilled banana in sight. Was she happy because she was doing something she knew she was good at and people appreciated? I like to think that it was a great part of it.

But back to the mango and sticky rice. Look for a stall with bright ripe mangos and plenty of locals hovering around the stand and then it’s pretty hard to go wrong. It’s also a dish that’s hard to replicate, not only because achieving the right texture and moistness of the rice with the coconut milk is a black art, but also because the Thai mangos used in the dish – naam dok maai – are simply unsurpassed by any grown elsewhere in the world. Once again, even with dessert it’s a dish of contrasting textures as well. The addition of sesame seeds (sometimes nuts) give the dish that crunch that the two main ingredients don’t provide.

A note of caution: eating a great version of this dish on the first day of a trip to Thailand can result in addiction for those with a sweet tooth and withdrawal is tough when you can’t find those damn mangoes at the local supermarket…

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A few taste sensations from Bangkok. Part Four.

This is the fourth in a series on dishes I loved in Bangkok; one of my favourite eating cities in the world.

Japanese Pork

Buta No Kakuni (Japanese Braised Pork Belly).

This one is perhaps a bit of a surprise. It’s not about Thai food. I want to celebrate the tremendous Japanese cuisine that you can get in Bangkok. We went to a few sushi places that were fine, but it’s the cuisine that’s meant to accompany a drinking session that is the most fun in Bangkok. The Izakaya bars – bars that serve tapas-size and -style dishes – in Bangkok are awesome and one of our favourite dishes is Buta No Kakuni (Japanese Braised Pork Belly) and the one at Aoi is particularly delicious. The first words out of our mouths after “wow!” when tasting this dish was “one more of these please”. That’s the great thing about tapas-sized dishes, there is always room for one more and another round of drinks… Aoi has spread its wings but it’s still best experienced at the original location.

Aoi, 132/ 10-11 Silom Soi 6, Bangkok

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A few taste sensations from Bangkok. Part Three.

This is the third in a series on dishes I loved in Bangkok; one of my favourite eating cities in the world.

Thip Samai. Check out all those egg shells...

Thip Samai. Check out all those egg shells...

One of the staples of street food in Bangkok is pad thai (sometimes written phàt thai), basically a dish of noodles, bean sprouts and the taste of tamarind. I’m not going to recite a step-by-step recipe, but let’s just say that it needs to be cooked fast in a very hot wok, with all the ingredients prepped and ready to go for their moment in the spotlight. In other words, it’s the perfect ‘cooked to order’ street food in Thailand. We excitedly went to what is arguably the most famous pad thai joint in Bangkok, Thip Samai, so beloved of the guidebooks, but it was disappointing. We were impressed with the sheer number of dishes they were churning out, the taste of the actual pad thai was a letdown, being slightly greasy and quite bland. However, for those obsessed with watching cooks at work this is a must-see in Bangkok, the girl who was ‘wrapping’ the noodles with the egg ‘omelette’ was fierce – even Anthony Bordain wouldn’t be game enough to give her cheek for her skills on her ‘station’. The woks they were using were ‘charcoal-powered’ and when the cooks needed an extra burst of heat they had switches that started what looked like turbo-charged blower fans that send sparks flying around the open kitchen. While the spectacle is something special, hopefully when you visit the shop won’t be getting as slammed with orders as it was the night we were there. The food was a major disappointment for us fully paid up pad thai lovers.

padthai02

Sukhumvit Soy 38. One man, two woks.

To find a tastier version of the dish, we headed to our local neighbourhood eat street, Sukhumvit Soi 38, right opposite Thong Lor station. The street food here is some of the best in the city, an opinion shared by many local chefs, but not by Lonely Planet writers – but who are you going to believe? One of the first stands when you enter the street is a guy on the right who runs a modest stall with his wife. We watched this guy making pad thai as well as the odd stir-fry, but it was his pad thai-making skills that had us hooked. As soon as he would finish one portion, he would rest the wok on the top of his gas bottle and start another portion in his other wok while his wife plated up the dish or boxed it for takeaway. All the customers were local, the stall was clean, he was working fast but his moves were methodical – every portion of pad thai was made the exact same way. Perfect. And street food at its best.

padthai03

Perfect. Street food at its best.

Sukhumvit Soi 38, opposite Thong Lor station. Opens at night right through until the early hours of the next day.

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  • Meet Terence Carter

    Terence Carter

    Terence Carter is a travel and editorial photographer and travel writer. He literally lives out of a suitcase accompanied by a couple of bags of photography gear. He travels with his much more talented wife, Lara Dunston, fabulous travel writer and itinerary maker extraordinaire. He is Australian by birth, he has a Masters Degree in media studies and his home is Dubai, where he visits occasionally to empty his post box.
    Check out my photography on my main website.

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